A Food Hall Joins Golden’s Booming Restaurant Scene

Will Kreznick

The Golden Mill, Golden’s newest food hall. Photo by From the Hip Photo Eat and Drink The Golden Mill is the latest addition to the town’s growing roster of new or expanded restaurants and culinary businesses. Patricia Kaowthumrong •  April 20, 2021 A piece of Centennial State history was reborn on April […]

Eat and Drink

The Golden Mill is the latest addition to the town’s growing roster of new or expanded restaurants and culinary businesses.

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A piece of Centennial State history was reborn on April 16 at the official opening of the Golden Mill, a food hall situated in a flour-mill-turned-feed-store that operated from 1865 to 2018. The spot is the brainchild of five Golden residents—Susan and Wes Ganter, Don and Jayme Martin, and Corby Felsher—who wanted to preserve the storied landmark while creating a gathering place for the community.

After purchasing the property in 2018, the group transformed it into a contemporary space with the help of Mark Shaker, founder of Stanley Marketplace and Broadway Market. In three years, builders conjoined the mill’s two separate structures into one, adding five kitchen-equipped food stalls, two bar areas, and a sprawling rooftop patio. Despite its modern features, pieces of history are woven throughout the space, from the Golden Mill signage facing Ford Street and walls bedecked with 19th-century-era images of the mill to the name given to one of the self-pour beer walls (Old Reliable, a nod to the site’s flour-productions days). “We wanted to do right by the history of the mill and the community of Golden,” says co-owner Susan Ganter.

Inside, diners can wet their whistles at 42-tap and 16-tap self-pour beverage walls on the main floor and rooftop, respectively. Most of the rotating taps are occupied by Colorado breweries, from Golden City Brewing to Telluride Brewing Co., but a handful also pour wine, cocktails, kombucha, and other beverages. Bites are provided by five food stalls, three of which are operated by chef Jesusio Silva (Misaki at Stanley, Tora Ramen, and others). 

Offerings from Silva include Tacos al Chile’s street tacos and gorditas; Republik of Chiken’s stacked fried chicken sandwiches; and Sushi Sora’s sushi, sashimi, and poke bowls. Smoked meats, including ribs, pulled pork, and brisket from Rolling Smoke BBQ and fruit-infused, New Zealand–style ice cream from Happy Cones round out the lineup. While you can’t go wrong visiting any of the stalls, we recommend a stop at Sushi Sora, where Silva produces artfully plated creations with fresh seafood flown in from coasts around the world.

The Golden Mill’s sweet rooftop, which sports wraparound vistas of Golden’s Clear Creek, Mount Zion, and Table Mountain, and thoughtful food and beverage program earn it serious summer hangout cred. But the food hall (1012 Ford St., Golden) isn’t the only restaurant and bar heating up Golden’s dining scene. Here are more newer or soon-to-open spots to check out:

  • Pit master Coy Webb launched Roaming Buffalo Bar-B-Que’s second location in Golden in January 2020 (the first is located in Rosedale). His brand of craft barbecue includes smoked lamb shoulder, bison back ribs, venison sausage, and other specialties served with comforting sides such as Southwest potato salad and Andouille and corn grits. 17121 S. Golden Rd., C100, Golden
  • Just over a year ago, downtown Golden’s Barrels and Bottles Brewery expanded with a second taproom within the Camp George West Historic District off South Golden Road. There, Front Rangers can order 28 beers and eight wines on tap, wine slushies, and selections from a small food menu of island-inspired dishes and Nips (savory fillings wrapped in pizza dough). 1055 Orchard St., Golden
  • Wheat Ridge Poultry and Meats, which has satisfied Denverites’ carnivorous cravings since 1942, launched a second outpost in Golden last September. At the neighborhood butcher shop, you can pick up meat and poultry sourced from local farms and ranches, cheeses, pantry staples, fresh produce, prepared meals, and lots more. Local delivery is also available. 1224 Washington Ave.,  Ste. 117, Golden
  • Tributary Food Hall and Drinkery, which opened as Golden’s first food hall in April 2019, has several new vendors: Opa Cocina Gyros and Tacos, Crepes & Co., Barefoot BBQ, Hello Poke, and Vito’s Pizzas & Pasta. The spots join original tenants Generous Coffee Shop, Kona Bowls Superfood Cafe, Mr. Miners Meat & Cheese, Amore Gelato, and the Bar at Tributary. 701 12th St., Golden
  • Fans of Denver’s Pandemic Donuts, rejoice: The Instagram-worthy treats are now available at one-month-old Back Alley Donuts in Golden, accompanied by java from Pangea Coffee Roasters. Check out the weekly flavor lineup posted on the shop’s website Sunday evening and preorder for pickup, or stop by the storefront in person Wednesday through Sunday to see what’s available. 1299 Washington Ave., Ste. 180, Golden
  • The Eddy will debut in June, bringing a 45-room, Golden-inspired boutique hotel and taproom to the land previously occupied by the old Golden brickworks mill. The Colorado-beer-centric taproom will offer a casual menu of barbecue and milkshakes, courtesy of the hotel’s own food truck, Truck Eddy BBQ & Shakes. 1640 8th St., Golden
Patricia Kaowthumrong, Food Editor

Patricia joined the 5280 staff in July 2019 and is thrilled to be writing about Colorado’s rich culinary scene. Follow her food reporting adventures on Instagram @whatispattyeating.

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